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Of The Bouchon Lyonnais!

  • Writer: A Crazy Little Bird Told Me
    A Crazy Little Bird Told Me
  • Apr 26, 2025
  • 5 min read

I have spent the past several years recommending to everybody I met, to forget Paris and instead visit Lyon, for a taste of the real France. I emphasised the absolute necessity to go and eat at one of the traditional (and absolutely delicious) Bouchon Lyonnais. There is a reason this city is considered by some as the World Capital of Food (not that I am biased or anything, of course). This is a place made for gourmands (yes, this is an English word, I checked!).

 

What on earth is a Bouchon Lyonnais, will you ask? Well, you came to the right place!

 

Let me start with the meaning of the term and its origin. If I had to translate the term Bouchon Lyonnais literally I would go with “Cork of Lyon”. Granted, this may sound a little bit strange, but also rather cute, don’t you think?

 

As for the origin of the name, well this part is clouded in mystery, but two main theories seem to prevail.

The first one, that can be found in the French dictionary Le Petit Robert, considers that the name derives from the 16th century expression for a bunch of twisted straw, which was used to distinguish cabarets (places that served wine and food for money (what we now called restaurant)) from taverns, probably from the old French “bousche” meaning “group of twigs”. The more common use of "bouchons" as a stopper or cork at the mouth of a bottle, and its derivatives, have the same etymology (yes, I see an article about the origin and evolution of corks in my future!).

The second theory is that the term Bouchon Lyonnais refers to the straw that was made available to traveller to rub down horses, in French “bouchonner”.

 

But how did it all begin, do you ask?

It all started with the Canuts, another of Lyon “landmark” (there are a few of those I'm afraid)!


The Canuts was the name given to the silk workers, and came from the word “cannette” which was the wooden spool used by silk-weavers, and in the 19th century by weaving machines. I guess you can’t talk about Lyon, Bouchon Lyonnais or Canuts without talking about silk.

Don't give up now, I swear all this information is worth reading!

 

When Charles VII granted the city the right to hold two tax-free fairs a year, in the 15th century, Lyon became a significant trading hub. The number of fairs grew to four annually by 1463, becoming a key event in European Renaissance commerce.

One of the most traded items at the time was silk, because the French aristocracy had an insatiable appetite for it. Unfortunately, at the time most of the silk was originated outside of France. In order to keep the wealth within its border, Louis XI sought to establish a silk manufacturing industry in Lyon. It took a bit of time to gather momentum, but by the early 17th century, the invention of the drawloom enabled the development of master patterned fabrics. During the reign of Louis XIV, the fashions of the Versailles court set trends for all other European courts, propelling Lyon’s silk industry into prominence. Lyon’s silk producers maintained their position through constant technical innovations (including Jacquard loom, named after the local inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard), high-quality designers, and ongoing stylistic creativity, earning the city the title of “Silk Capital of the World”. Yes, they are also World Capital of Food … what can I say, it is a really special place!

 

Now the silk industry required workers, a lot of them, hence the Canuts and hence the Bouchon Lyonnais! And, as the say goes, “la boucle est bouclée”!

 

But what about the food, will you ask, and why should you try it?

First thing first, the bedrock of a Bouchon Lyonnais is not haute cuisine, fancy plates, delicate little leaves and flowers or fancy cutlery. Oh no sir, it is all about conviviality, cosiness and a food made for the soul. The Bouchon has humble beginnings that can still be felt today in the generous portions, the quality of the products, and the focus on taste, hospitality and friendliness over anything else.

 

Let’s start with the mâchon. The Canuts started work very early in the morning and would have a break for food mid-morning, usually taken in a tavern or in a wine shop. The mâchon, that still exists today in some Bouchons, was all about pork products (saucisson, charcuterie, offal etc.) and red wine, such as Beaujolais (yet another local tradition). This is why it all began.

 

Women were instrumental in developing the Bouchon’s cooking. In the 19th century, working class women, the one who cooked for the local bourgeoisie, established themselves and started selling food, preparing simple and tasty dishes, avoiding waste, cooking leftovers, using cheap pieces of meat and offal. This is how the legend of the “Mères Lyonnaises”, the “Moms of Lyon”, started.

Those women became skilled and for some, legendary cooks. Amongst the most celebrated are la Mère Fillioux, known for its “semi-mourning poultry” (don’t ask!), la Mère Brazier who was the first woman to obtain 3 Michelin stars, or la Mère Guy, known for her pike and eel recipes. All those women, most of them (if not all) known for their strong temperament, became the symbol of the gastronomy of the city, at a time where women were nothing but invisible. Their legacy has endured!

 

So, you get it now, right? A Bouchon Lyonnais is a place made for folks, for the working class, a place to share, sit, drink and be merry.

 

Alrigth, alright, I can see you are not yet convinced. Let me tempt you with some examples of what you will find on the menu of those fine establishments. This is but a meek and short list!

  • Grattons: similar to pork crackling, but instead of the pork skin, these are crispy pieces of fat (to clarify, yes, you’re eating your next heart attack, but it is so good, who cares!)

  • Aperitif (little libation to get you started!): you can try a communard (crème de cassis (liquor) and Black Pinot (red wine) mixed) or a cardinal (crème de cassis (liquor) and Beaujolais (red wine) mixed)

  • Salade Lyonnaise: lettuce with bacon, croutons, mustard dressing, and a poached egg; other type of salads will include different type of offals

  • Oeufs en Meurette: poached eggs in a sauce meurette made of Burgundy red wine, lardons, button mushrooms, onions and shallots pan-fried in butter (yes, again, you are kind of eating your next heart attack… and again, who cares, your soul needs it)

  • Saucisson brioche: delicious sausage baked inside a loaf of brioche

  • Quenelle de Brochet: a type of pike dumpling that had be run under a grill, often served with a crayfish sauce (Sauce Nantua) or a cream sauce (sauce mousseline)

 

The meal is enjoyed with wine from the Rhone Valley such as Beaujolais, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, or Syrah. You can also expect a wild array of charcuterie and cheese.

 

In case you’re still on the fence, and you feel the absolute need for a dessert, those places have those too, worry not. But, you can maybe wait for lunch or an afternoon break, and try one of the many wonderful pastries scattered all around town? If you want to experience something local, you can try having a little sweet snack at Bernachon. Try their President or the Eventail, buy some “Palets d’Or” for the road! Be wild my friend!

 

I hope... no, I expect you are now booking a plane ticket to go discover this magical city, its history and more importantly, its food and wine!

 

Videos (yes … in French .. but you can select English subtitles):

 

Sources:

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